Travel Guide: Cornwall, England
This coastal paradise is vacationland to Brits and should be on your radar.
Sennen Beach
Cornwall is synonymous with English summer. It’s where many Brits grew up going for summer holiday, including my husband who was raised just across the river from Cornwall in Plymouth. The closest comparison in America I could think of is the islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard. Cornwall has the quaint seaside towns and is relatively uninhabited in the colder months — the differences being that Cornwall has an even more majestic landscape with sweeping elevations, and in spite of many concerns that it’s being taken over by the elites, I find it’s still very low key and dare I say, authentic.
So, I always wonder why it’s not on the radar of more Americans. Within England, London is at the top of the list, with a potential detour to the Cotswolds (which is hell in summer if you ask me), and Scotland and Ireland are popular destinations. But never Cornwall or Devon (on that note, here’s my guide to Devon, and don’t just take my word for it, the tastemaker, Amanda Brooks shared her love letter to Devon). I’ve traveled all around including some of the hottest destinations in Europe for summer, and I can tell you this part of the world offers everything you could ever want including stunning views, design stays, incredible food, and adventure — and all for a great value.
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sense of spen• cer
noun [sɛns, əv, ˈspɛnsər]
Reflecting one’s identity through their interiors
A home with character and soul
When a house becomes a home
Mousehole harbor at night
Getting There
Plane. There is an airport in Newquay, and in season you can get a nonstop flight from Gatwick for 1 hr 20 min.
Train. Train is one of the best options. From London Paddington to Penzance takes 5 hours and runs frequently in season. Or there’s a Night Riviera Sleeper service to Penzance. Once there, you can rent a car to get around.
Car. The car takes roughly the same amount of time as the high speed train, at 4.5-5 hours, but you get the flexibility to make stops along the way.
Planning Your Trip
Mentally prepare for the weather. The biggest downside to summers in Cornwall is the unpredictability of the weather. More often than not, it might be cloudy and cool, but man, when the sun shines, it is glorious.
Hence, pack layers. You’ll want a cozy sweater or two to take the chill off, with a T-shirt or loose button down should the sun come out. Linen pants and comfy jeans are good to have in addition to shorts.
Beach kit. There are so many off the beaten path beaches worth stopping in, keep your beach gear in your car including blanket, towels, and chairs.
The beach at Treyarnon Bay, Cornwall
What To Do
Hit the Beach
Cornwall is known for its beaches, turquoise water, and waves, which is why it’s the UK’s biggest surf spot. Even if you don’t surf, the beaches have so much to offer. The vibes are laidback akin to the West coast, and the beaches rival you’ll find in the Mediterranean. Just to warn you, the water is cold, even in the summer. Those who flock there for summer consider it refreshing. You can decide for yourself. Off season, the beach is still a draw. There are lots of great trails and cliff walks that snake around the coastline providing some epic views. Our favorite spot is Treyarnon Bay (where you can catch a phenomenal sunset) and Constantine Beach right around the corner (which my husband calls a “posh beach”), but there are countless others from Pedn Vounder Beach to Porthmeor Beach to Sennen Cove which ranks as one of the best beaches in the UK — I know it took my breath away.
Padstow
Padstow is a classic holiday village, built up next to a harbour, with pedestrian streets lined with candy stores, shops selling tourist trinkets, and lots of restaurants, some of them very upscale. Pick up some locally made St Eval candles (perfect gift to bring home). Seafood is a must, with fresh fish caught nearby. The town is a reflection of Cornwall these days — you’ll find local kids skating in the park on your way to a Michelin starred restaurant. Some hate to see how the English TV chef Rick Stein has built up a mini empire in this area (and attracted fellow big name chefs), but at the same time, tourism brings money into this very remote, lower income area.
The harbor in Padstow, Cornwall
Fresh catch in Padstow
The Eden Project
For a break from the beach (or on a rainy day), I recommend The Eden Project — home to the largest indoor rainforest in the world! The sprawling complex was built into a crater the size of 30 football pitches, which was formerly a china clay pit (china clay used to be a huge export from Cornwall). It’s made up of two geodesic domes which host biomes, one the tropical rainforest and the other a Mediterranean environment. It’s pretty cool and educational too.
Shopping in Penzance
In general, the south west is not where you come to shop, but I discovered some surprisingly good shops, like gems amidst some rundown storefronts. They’re all mostly concentrated on Chapel Street including eastofhere for imported textiles and Handworked for artisan-made home good from across the UK (I got a Welsh blanket that I will treasure forever).
Dinner at Argoe in Newlyn
A Jelbert’s ice cream cone
Where to Eat: Cornwall
The Canteen at Maker Heights (Millbrook) A hidden gem perched at the top of a lookout point — we actually walked there from Mount Edgecumb along a trail, but you can get there by car. It’s pretty understated, but the simple, delicious food and the panoramic views make it a pretty special spot for lunch (a good stop off point while driving from Devon to Cornwall).
Fitzroy (Fowey) This chef-driven restaurant works wonders with seasonal ingredients. On their Instagram, they’ll share what ingredient they just got in and will be featured in dishes. I had one of the best lobsters of my life there, smothered in garlic butter and grilled. Oh my! I really enjoyed sitting at the bar which opens right onto the kitchen and watching the pros at work. The owners have another spot, North Street Kitchen, down the street that’s open for lunch only. [Sadly it is now closed - as of summer 2024, North Street Kitchen was still operating with the same chef]
Prawn on the Lawn (Padstow) You know the seafood is fresh when they display it in the window. The fish and shellfish is served up in an unfussy way (in contrast to some of the higher end spots in the area). I ordered a fish and shellfish stew to taste a little of everything. I’d also highly recommend the fresh bread with seaweed butter. So good!
Roundhouse (Penzance) One of the only places to get real coffee/espresso drinks. The most delicious homemade pastries and sandwiches.
45 Queen Street (Penzance) The kind of restaurant you can linger in all day so good thing it serves breakfast lunch and dinner. The farm to table menu is so good it’s hard to choose. There’s a market for to go items as well.
Argoe (Newlyn) An extremely memorable seafood meal. The restaurant is right on the water overlooking the fishing boats so you know it’s all as fresh as can be. The dishes are all simple letting the ingredients shine.
Mackerel Sky Seafood Bar (Newlyn) Another great seafood spot, with an Asian twist. Setting is pretty next to a stream.
Jelberts (Newlyn) This ice cream shop hasn’t changed one bit since it opened, and they only serve one flavor. It made the list as one of the best ice cream shops in the world, and I can attest it deserves its spot.
Stevenson & Sons (Newlyn) - This seafood shop has the most extraordinary selection of fresh locally caught fish and crab if you’ve got a kitchen, or pick up crab sandwiches for a beach picnic like we did.
The Hidden Hut (Truro) A charming beach hut that serves top rate food
Vine by Knighter (Portscatho) A pop up eatery by the only winery in the Roseland, the emphasis is food with big flavors and wine, served in a chill atmosphere. Their specialty is vermouth including this highly unique rose vermouth, best served over ice with a bit of soda or made into a Cornish Negroni.
Where to Stay
The Old Coastguard (Mousehole)
This hotel has the charm of an old seaside hotel, but has been lovingly updated with excellent design choices. Rooms overlook the water, and the front lawn on the sea is the place to be on summer evenings, with live music some nights and a charming crab shake for a casual bite. The main restaurant serves a tasting menu (requires a res even if you are staying there). The room comes with an elaborate freshly made breakfast, and they deliver milk to your door every morning to make tea. Its in a quiet area, a short walk to Mousehole and a drive to Newlyn.
Coombeshead Farm (Cornwall)
In the heart of Cornwall’s rural countryside (just across from Devon), this guest house and working farm set on 66 acres offers a wondrous escape. The rooms are simple and cozy, but the star is the restuarant. In true agroturismo fashion, the food served in the restaurant is grown on the land but is turned into a next level dining experience by its two acclaimed chefs, Tom Adams and April Bloomfield of Spotting Pig fame in New York City.
My room with a view at the Old Coastguard
Hotel Tresanton (Cornwall)
Owned by the same proprietor as Hotel Endsleigh (she describes the properties as her children whom she can’t pick a favorite), the property is built into a cliff with views overlooking St Mawes Bay. The vibe is understated luxury done in a very homey way with a mix of old and new furniture. It's home to an upscale restaurant and a beach club with a decidedly Mediterranean feel.
Cottage Orne (Cornwall) - opening summer 2025
I’ve watched the evolution of this boutique resort since its inception with design-led cottages designed by Studio Alexandra and sprawling grounds which include shepherd’s huts, pool, saunas, and even an art studio.
Vacation Rentals
There’s Airbnb and VRBO in the UK, but for something a little more special I suggest checking out Plum Guides or Unique Home Stays which both offer curated home stays all across England. Having a house as a home base can be a great option especially if you opt for a longer stay – which is the perfect way to get the feel for this beautiful region.
What to Wear
As I mentioned above, the weather can be quite unpredictable — glorious sunshine one minute and miserable gray rain the next. So, the best way to prepare is to pack layers.
You’ll always want a cozy cotton sweater within arms reach especially at or near the beach.
It can be a bit humid so you want clothes that can breath.
Whether you’re in the country or the sea, there’s always a lot of terrain to traverse so comfortable shoes are a must.
I personally always pack short rain boots. Better safe (and comfortable) than sorry. A light rain coat isn’t a bad idea either.
Here’s an edit inspired by what I’ve packed for trips to the English seashore (in summer).